Norway, Part I

Back in September, we finally made it.  A trip I've been meaning to take pretty much my entire life.  Norway.  My father grew up there.  During my childhood he went back a few times to look after the family homestead, a farm.  I was not allowed to join him as I would miss too much school. So frustrating.    

He brought back photos.  Old Kodacolor snapshots.  He assured me they did not capture the true beauty.  He was right.  I will share several images here, and as good as they are, most simply don't recreate the texture and breadth.

We began in Oslo.  I immediately took to it.  Felt as inviting and safe as any large city I've visited.  I also immediately appreciated the lower air temperatures - highs in the fifties, lows in the forties (Farenheit).  A needed break from South Florida heat.  We found a good place for dinner down the street from our hotel - Den Glade Gris.  I had their signature offering, pig's knuckle.  Slow cooked, and delicious.  We sat outside, where songs by Sade drifted from the speaker.  The meal was pricy.  Most of them were on this trip.  When dining out in Norway, be prepared!

The next morning we wondered why there were so many folks out and about in the Palace Park near our hotel, one of the several in the Thon chain throughout the country.  There were TV cameras on risers and large media trucks everywhere.  Some police checkpoints.  

King Harald had passed several days earlier.  The king of Norge for over forty years.  Much beloved.  Evidenced by rows of bouquets and flags placed under the statue of King Charles John in front of the Royal Palace.

We stood with a thousand others as military men lined up.  Their superiors periodically walked over to them, readjusting how the men held their rifles.  Everyone patiently waited, finally witnessing the procession, the King's casket hauled by a Mercedes G-Wagon.

Throughout the day we encountered streets lined with soldiers and mourners.  We witnessed history, quite by accident.

We stopped for lunch at Stortorvets Gjaestgiveri, an old (18th century) eatery off Grensen.  I did not try the smoked whale but my reindeer burger was tasty.  The ambience was very cozy.

We made our way to the Oslo Opera House.  You can wander around in the lobby but the real attraction is climbing on the sloped roof, which offers nice views of the harbor.

Next door is the Munch Museum, thirteen floors (!) of Edvard Munch's art (and some inspired by him).  Paintings, stencils, carvings, even crayon drawings.  Each floor has a theme.  There is a recreation of the rooms of his home, very well done, and spooky.  Another floor allows you to plop down and create your own sketch on a digital tablet, which you can match up with something similar in the Munch archive.

On our way back to the hotel I got this lovely shot of the city.

The next day we took a Vy train to Bergen, a seven hour plus journey. Quite scenic. Mountains. Waterfalls.  Greenery.  Rocky terrain.  We traveled through places like Ustaoset, Haugastol, and Finse.  In the Vikersund station I spied this gem of a sign.

The Kroder Line.  Norway's longest railroad museum.   Linguists just love long words.

We spent one night in Bergen, the next morning southbound via the Nor-way bus to Stavanger.  I was not aware that the bus parks onto a ferry boat two separate times along the way.  The second time the water was a bit choppy.  Good thing my wife brought some Dramamine. 

We spent the next three days staying with my wife's grad school roommate and her husband.  Lovely couple.  I had some local brew - RYGR.  I was told the local wine is not great.  Must be the climate? Our hosts treated us to a fish and macaroni offering and other traditional Norwegian dishes.  On Sunday night we had lamb, specifically marinated by a local butcher. 

We wandered the wharf in Stavanger one day.  The day before that we made the windy and rainy trek on foot to Sverd i fjell, where three huge (30') swords are lodged into solid rock by a fjord.  It symbolizes Norway's unification, established in the year 872, some time after the Battle of Hafrsford.  The bronze swords were erected in 1983.  The weather conditions made the experience that much more vivid, like we fought our own battle to get there.  A real Norwegian experience.  Of course my wife and I took pictures of each other in front of them.  As we are sufficiently dwarfed, the pics are suitably dramatic. 

In Part II I'll discuss our time in Bergen, Myrdal, Flam, and back to Oslo.