Darbster

Finding a genuinely vegan restaurant in West Palm Beach, heck, Palm Beach County is no easy task. Darbster, opened this past November, fills this void quite nicely. Its site: a very unassuming spot underneath a giant billboard on the northern side of the Palm Beach Canal. This location has been home to a variety of low rent proprieterships over the years: drive-up convenience store, sleazy bars, restaurants with live chickens scurrying about. It's a place one would easily breeze past along Dixie Highway.

Watch for the sign, and turn in. The owners of Darbster have entirely renovated the space, sprucing up the outdoor deck and bar. Half of the tables are covered by an overhang. Ah, but the food? Many are skeptical of vegan fare, with its faux chicken (chik'n) and cheese (cheez). The substitutes are comprised of soy protein, including the trademarked gardein. My "steak" tacos, ordered on our first visit, were filled with gardein and it, seriously, was hard to note differences with meat versions. Perhaps it was the insanely good (and raw) guacamole and salsa. Either way, a must!

We've been back 2 more times, ordering flax tomato sandwiches, "chicken" marsala, and hearts of palm cakes accompanied by a superb lemon pine nut sauce. A Villa Rolf Pinot Noir goes quite well with the latter. During our first visit, the guy a table over was so impressed with the palm dish that he insisted that he share some with us! Desserts are also quite good: the blueberry fruit cobbler and "chocolate" mousse (another raw dish, made of avacado, cocoa powder, and dates) are recommended.

The atmosphere at Darbster is decidedly relaxed, not beset with superior attitudes or pretention you might find at other such restaurants. The husband and wife owners are delightful, warm people. The wait staff are also quite friendly and efficient. All this, plus you can bring your dog if you wish. In fact, on Wednesdays, you get 25% your food bill if you bring your pooch!


www.darbster.com

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